I am sitting in the Maui airport after 5 days here at this tropical island. It has been a time of realization and also of some spectacular beauty.
For anyone going here – I highly recommend driving on the Hana road. The waterfalls, beaches and lava formations are humbling. Nature at it’s wildest. Pick up a handful of pebbles at Black Sand Beach smoothed by years of wild waves crashing on that shore. Walk in the lava tunnels and climb up the volcano Hanealuka. This is nature at its wildest, mountains pushed out of the sea by plate tectonics. Massive rock thrown around on the ground, as if strewn by some giant baby, by pressure from the core of the earth. The crashing waves of the pacific on the coastline – an ocean view so wide you can see the curvature of the earth.
Why am I then so sad as I sit here in the airport? Because I find myself happy to leave this place. I’ve never quite understood what the compulsive traveler meant by a place being spoiled by tourism. No matter how many places you have gone to escape your own shadow and “find yourself” – you are still a tourist when you arrive at another culture. Who are you, to think you have some unique privilege of being their before the “other” tourists.
But now I understand what it means for a place to be spoiled by tourists. Is has something to do with ambient noise and choice. And it happens when the American middle class discovers the location.
It is immediately obvious on arrival at the hotel. The bars have TV-screens going at high volume, showing sports and CNN. And the noise from the people! The chatter of irrelevant “how are yous”, the excessive use of: “Like”, “You Know”, “Kinda” and other fill words. The content-free conversations you overhear. I have been in the craziest streets of Istanbul, the cafes of Soho, the pubs of Dublin and the rave discos of Amsterdam. I have even been on the charter locations of Gran Canaria and Tenerife and the snobbish coasts of the French Riviera. But nowhere in the world have I found such irrelevant chatter of pleasantries, background noise, too loud muzak and political “non confrontational” correctness as on Hawaii. Even out there in nature, where the stunning beauty should just leave you silent in awe, you hear the uncaring “how are you?” and the gold digging “so what do you do?” blah blah.
Now, it does not end at the noise and the children who of course, poor souls, pick up that behavior from their parents. The mediocrity runs deeper.
It all starts with morning coffee. At the sign on the hotel coffee cart it said: “We are proud to brew Starbuck coffee” – of course backed by muzak that is just that little bit too loud. Folks, let’s get this straight: NOONE is proud to brew Starbucks – the lowest common denominator coffee. America: Proud is not the same as “won’t kill you if you drink it”. There is nowhere on this island that you an get a decent cup of coffee. The locals, when asked, just shrug their shoulders and tell you they share the pain.
The food is fatty, the prices are high – but it is “good value” because you get a mountain of food for your USD. The big chains take over to serve the 80% population: the fat, “entitled”, irresponsible, gladiator watching, pale, lipo-suctioned and uneducated masses. In the process – all local dealers close shop – having been offered a great retirement plan for their little spot on the beach. Who wouldn’t take that offer? It makes money, it’s optimized and popular, so it has to be good – right?
And then there is the irresponsibility. At the valet parking (25 USD / night – “don’t want you to have the discomfort of walking the 50m to the parking lot – no sireee”) I asked the parking guy to put the GPS in the glove department for me. Response: “Sorry sir, I cannot do this. I do not want to be responsible if it breaks”. Poor guy – probably afraid there will be a lawyer on his tail in case I (or the hotel) do not feel I can handle or forgive such an event – should the extremely unlikely happen.
The culture of greed and irresponsibility seems to have no limits. Once the big consumption driven money arrives – silence, sanity and peace of mind goes away. We are left with an invading, moaning, zombie army crawing entertainment and comfort – out to destroy real life quality and bring us all into the realm of the undead. I have sworn to myself that from now on – I will research my vacation destinations more thoroughly – and if there is an abundance of American middle class there – it is “no thanks sireee” for me.
America – you have a large part of your population that is a disgrace to the human race and a disease to this planet. Please, please become the great nation you once were. Greed is not the solution.
And for the rest of the world – stop buying from the mega corps of America and be proud of your culture – one not driven by greed as the only mantra. Your local coffee is great (Italy, Turkey and Saudi Arabia: hear me!) – don’t buy into the Starbucks brand. You can take the blame for your own mistakes and you can be proud that you can still discuss your political (and religious) opinions on a street cafe without being considered politically incorrect. Don’t use your hard earned cash to fill the war chest of the US mega corporations – just say no to America. That is the only cure and every dollar you spend is a vote in the global economy.